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چشم‌انداز آینده صنعت مُد با به‌کارگیری فناوری تولید افزایشی(چاپ سهبُعدی) | ||
| جلوه هنر | ||
| مقاله 1، دوره 13، شماره 1 - شماره پیاپی 30، خرداد 1400، صفحه 7-17 اصل مقاله (1.23 M) | ||
| نوع مقاله: مقاله پژوهشی | ||
| شناسه دیجیتال (DOI): 10.22051/jjh.2021.30432.1491 | ||
| نویسندگان | ||
| اعظم افتخاری* 1؛ علی اندجی گرمارودی2 | ||
| 1کارشناس ارشد طراحی پارچه و لباس ، موسسه آموزش عالی معماری و هنر پارس، تهران، ایران (نویسنده مسئول) | ||
| 2استادیار گروه معماری، موسسه آموزش عالی معماری و هنر پارس، تهران، ایران. | ||
| چکیده | ||
| حدود ربع قرن است که محققان به فناوری تولید افزایشی یا معادل عمومیتر آن فناوری چاپ سهبُعدی دست یافتهاند. استفاده از چاپ سهبُعدی در تعدادی از صنایع، از جمله صنعت مُد، در حال گسترش است. این روش در صنعت مُد برای ایجاد نمونه‌های اولیه، محصول نهایی و هم‌چنین، برای تهیه محصولات سفارشی مورد استفاده قرار می‌گیرد و تعدادی از مزایای آن در مقایسه با فرایندهای تولید سنتی شامل فرایند طراحی سریع، زمان تولید کم‌تر و هزینههای پایینتر مربوط به گرفتن فهرست موجودی، انبارداری، بسته‌بندی و حمل و نقل است. پرسشی که این پژوهش در راستای پاسخ‌گویی بدان پیش میرود، این است: فناوری چاپ سهبُعدی در صنعت مُد چگونه به کار گرفته میشود؟ به نظر میرسد، قابلیتهای فناوری چاپ سهبُعدی میتواند به طراحان جهت تولید طرحهای متنوع و سفارشیسازی محصول با مواد و ساختارهای مختلف، کمک کند. امکاناتی که نرمافزارهای سهبُعدی در اختیار طراحان قرار میدهند، به خلاقیت بیش‌تر آنها میانجامد. هدف از این پژوهش که در زمره پژوهشهای توسعهای قرار دارد و با بهرهگیری از مطالعات اسنادی و با روش تجزیه و تحلیل کیفی فراهم آمده، مطالعه ویژگیهای فناوری چاپ سهبُعدی و کاربردهای آن در صنعت مُد است که به طراحان یاری میرساند؛ تا طرحهای متنوع و سفارشی را با مواد و ساختارهای مختلف تولید نمایند. نظر به این‌که استفاده از چاپ سه بُعدی در صنعت مُد یک موضوع نوظهور برای بحث است، نتایج حاصل از پژوهش حاضر معرفی تعدادی از روشهای چاپ سهبُعدی خواهد بود که در این صنعت کاربرد بیش‌تری دارند؛ هم‌چنین، پیشبینی میشود تلاشهای متنوعتری برای استفاده از فناوری چاپ سهبُعدی، به‌خصوص، در جهت ارتقای خواص پایداری زیستی مواد و ویژگیهای آن در صنعت مُد دنبال شود. | ||
| کلیدواژه‌ها | ||
| صنعت مُد؛ طراحی لباس؛ فناوری؛ تولید افزایشی(چاپ سهبُعدی) | ||
| عنوان مقاله [English] | ||
| Prospects for the Fashion Industry Using Additive Manufacturing Technology (3D Printing) | ||
| نویسندگان [English] | ||
| A. Eftekhari1؛ A. Andaji Garmaroodi2 | ||
| 1M.A., Fashion Designing, Pars Institute of Higher Education, Tehran, Iran(Corresponding Author) | ||
| 2Assistant Professor, Architecture Department, Pars Institute of Higher Education, Tehran, Iran | ||
| چکیده [English] | ||
| Abstract For about three decades, researchers have been developing Additive Manufacturing Technology, or more generally, 3D printing technology. The technology of additive manufacturing or 3D printing can be considered as a result of the fourth industrial revolution in the early 21st century. The Fourth Industrial Revolution is known via concepts such as artificial intelligence, machine-human connectors, robotic technology and sensors, 3D printing technology, and cyber-physical systems, which combine real and virtual technologies to provide autonomy and communication between machines independent of humans. 3D printing is extensively applied in a number of industries, such as aerospace, automotive, medical and, dental components, alternative pieces for electronics, architectural models, and sports equipment. In addition, it is expanding in the fashion industry. In this technology, first, the product is designed using 3D modeling software, then the parts are divided into horizontal layers based on the 3D design in the software. Then the data of the digital file is sent to the printer. After that, the product is made by placing the materials in successive layers on top of each other and each layer is fastened on top of each other with special adhesives or laser beam. This continues until the layers are completed and the final product is made. That is why the technology is called additive manufacturing. Materials used in 3D printing include glass, ceramics, metals, wax, sand, polymers and, resins. However, it is predicted that with the development of science in 3D printing materials, materials made of textile fibers will be introduced. For example, the TamiCare textile company has developed a 3D printing technology that aims to print fabrics using liquid polymers including natural latex, silicone, polyurethane, Teflon, and textile fibers including cotton, Rayon and, Polyamide. To convert a 2D design into a 3D product, 3D Cad software or programs such as Rhino are used. This software provides parametric design tools especially for designers who do not have coding experience. Parametric design tools are more efficient and easier to operate so that multiple changes to a design can be made with a single code. Based on the studies, it seems that the capabilities of 3D printing technology in the fashion industry can help designers to create prototypes, produce the final product, as well as to produce customized products, and create an interactive experience between designers and audiences. The possibilities provided by 3D software to designers lead to more creativity, and designers can easily create what they have in mind by using 3D software. Applying CAD files also allows companies to quickly produce prototypes and create targeted products according to customer needs. In addition, 3D printing can have a huge impact on the supply chain of traditional products such as fast design process, less production time, reduced number of stages required to produce the items, possibility of more distribution and decentralized production, reduced need for warehousing, packaging, and transportation. These are some of the things in the traditional process of production that can be influenced by technology. 3D printing helps businesses by reducing the amount of unused inventory and reducing capital loss. This technology has also contributed to the goals of sustainable fashion, such as minimizing waste in printing, recycling materials as well as the use of environmentally friendly materials that will be highly regarded in the future of the industry. In spite of these advantages, these products also have disadvantages, for example, designing with 3D CAD software, printers and various materials is a complex process that requires the cooperation of interdisciplinary knowledge and skills. In addition, it may be difficult for designers to understand the mathematical algorithms needed to produce accurate three-dimensional structures. Also, the high price of the final product, the low flexibility of the product in some 3D printing methods, the lack of finesse of the filaments compared to textile yarns can be considered as other disadvantages of the technology. Given that the use of 3D printing in the fashion industry is an emerging topic for discussion, the research aims to answer the following question: “How is the 3D printing technology used in the fashion industry?” It seems that the capabilities of 3D printing technology can help designers to produce designs and customize the product with different materials and structures, and the possibilities that 3D software provides designers, make them more creative. It should also be noted that the environmental characteristics of the technology have increased the importance of promoting knowledge about this topic. Thus, introducing and explaining 3D printing technology and understanding the advantages and disadvantages of the technology is important and necessary. In this paper, first, the 3D printing in the fashion industry is introduced. Next, the 3D printing processes and the materials used in it are studied and examples of 3D printing technologies that are often used in the fashion industry are introduced, which include five 3D printing Stereolithography methods, Selective Laser Sintering (SLS), Fused Deposition Modelling (FDM), PolyJet, Binder Jetting. Finally, 3D printing features will be examined to realize a part of sustainable fashion. Since the paper considers the introduction and development of 3D printing technology in the fashion industry, it can be called developmental research. But in terms of content, it is considered analytical research because after recognizing the different aspects of the subject and collecting the acquired information in different areas of additive manufacturing (3D) and the fashion industry, the data have been analyzed and explained. In the research, the qualitative analysis method has been used to analyze the data and the method of data collection is documentary (library) and the data collection tool is note-taking sheets. The sampling method and the approximate volume of data are based on the available samples and are probably simple because among, the various methods using 3D printing, the five most widely used methods in the fashion industry are analyzed and based on the results obtained from the data, the sustainability aspects of 3D printing in fashion have been investigated. The study aims to look at the future of the fashion industry by using Additive Manufacturing Technology (3D printing) and identifying the ability of this technology to achieve the goals and concerns of the fashion industry in the future. The results of the study show that 3D printing has many benefits including the production of prototypes by designers, creating customized products for consumers, improving the quality of products by designers, reducing the cost of packaging, storage, classification and, transportation; time management as well as the environmental properties of the technology, for example minimizing waste in printing, recycling materials and using environmentally friendly materials that will be highly regarded in the future of the industry. However, there are still challenges that designers face, i.e. the unavailability of 3D printing raw materials (filaments) to produce their products, the high cost of the finished product if not combined with textiles; restrictions on mass production of 3D printing products, low flexibility compared to products made with textiles, restrictions on cutting and sewing, lack of variety in the color of the materials, limitation in coloring the materials, facing cutting challenges, removing and polishing supporting structures that need to be considered. It is predicted that when new materials are introduced to produce textile fibers, the quality of 3D printing fashion products will also improve and 3D printing materials can function as fabrics. 3D printing can also provide suitable solutions for the waste generated by fast fashion and test more environmentally friendly materials in the future. | ||
| کلیدواژه‌ها [English] | ||
| Fashion Industry, Fashion Design, Technology, Additive Manufacturing (3D Printing) | ||
| مراجع | ||
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